• Tapestry and Capri have mutually agreed to call off their merger.
• The parent companies behind Coach and Michael Kors saw their proposed merger blocked by the Federal Trade Commission.
• In October, Tapestry said it would appeal the ruling.

Capri and Tapestry called off their merger on Thursday after the Federal Trade Commission successfully sued to block the megadeal.

The two U.S.-based luxury houses "mutually agreed" that terminating the merger was in their best interests as they were unlikely to get regulatory approval before the deal was set to expire in February, according to a news release.

"With the termination of the merger agreement, we are now focusing on the future of Capri and our three iconic luxury houses," Capri CEO John Idol said in a statement. "Looking ahead, I remain confident in Capri's long-term growth potential for numerous reasons."

The $8.5 billion acquisition, originally announced in August 2023, would have married America's two largest luxury houses and put six fashion brands under one company: Tapestry's Coach, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman with Capri's Versace, Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors. 

In April, the FTC sued to block the deal, saying the tie-up would disadvantage consumers and reduce benefits for the companies' employees. Last month, a federal judge ruled in the FTC's favor and granted its motion for a preliminary injunction to block the proposed merger.

At the time, Tapestry said it would appeal the ruling.

In its own news release Thursday, Tapestry said it doesn't need Capri to continue growing and will use the cash it's freed up to fund an additional $2 billion share repurchase authorization.

"We have always had multiple paths to growth and our decision today clarifies the forward strategy. Building on our successful first quarter, we will move with speed and boldness to accelerate growth for our organic business," CEO Joanne Crevoiserat said in a statement.

Tapestry plans to fund the stock repurchase through a combination of cash on hand and debt. 

The company said Thursday "there is no break fee associated with the transaction," but under the terms of the merger agreement, Tapestry had agreed to pay Capri for its expenses if the deal failed to earn regulatory approval. Tapestry said it will reimburse Capri around $45 million.

Recently, Wall Street analysts had begun to sour on the merger, saying Tapestry was poised to overpay for Capri considering the lengthy approval process and how much Capri's business had declined.

In the initial aftermath of the judge's ruling, shares of Capri plunged around 50% while Tapestry's stock surged about 10%. On Thursday, Tapestry shares were more than 7% higher in premarket trading while Capri's were down around more than 5%.

Capri is slated to have a call with analysts at 11 a.m. ET to discuss the decision and its strategies to return to growth and fix its most important brand, Michael Kors, which has been grappling with a long decline in sales.

"Given our Company's performance over the past 18 months, we have recently started to implement a number of strategic initiatives to return our luxury houses to growth," Idol said in a news release. "Across Versace, Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors, we are focused on brand desirability through exciting communication, compelling product and omni-channel consumer experience. While our strategies are tailored uniquely for each brand, our overarching goals are similar."

Correction: John Idol is CEO of Capri. An earlier version misspelled his name.